Swiftech sent the case without a power supply and the parts box where the power supply should be. In order to get to this area, you have to remove the side panels, remove a plastic screw from the faceplate, remove the faceplate, and then remove the top of the case.ng the parts box reveals a dizzying array of nuts, bolts, screws, rails, and panels, and two instruction books. The first book is essentially an in-depth manual for the cooling system installation, which walks you through all the fun you missed by purchasing it already installed. The second book is the installation manual for a number of different motherboard and processor configurations that will work with this case. The good thing is that all parts are included whether you want to run a socket 423 P4, a socket 478 P4, or a Socket A AMD Athlon, all of which will fit differently in the case.

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Installing the motherboard is no picnic, either. There is a metal support bracket that runs the length of the case, front to back. It looks like it is removable, but it appears that this is just a tease. You can unscrew the bar from the rear, but it is secured to the front of the chassis and isn't coming out. Couple that with the heat sink and water pipes that dangle down over the motherboard plate and you have to be very careful not to damage your motherboard during the installation. A technician accustomed to this procedure will have no problems, as long as they are sure to not drop the heat sink on the motherboard (as I nearly did) after installation. The procedure for mounting the motherboard is as follows:

1. Before actually installing the motherboard, make sure to configure the mounting screws to match holes on your motherboard. Extra or misplaced screws will short out the back of the motherboard, so make sure you don't have any of those lying around. Also, make sure that the ATX back plate matches the configuration of the board, i.e.) if you have audio on board, punch out the corresponding holes on the back plate.

2. With one hand, hold the heat sink up and out of the way. There is nowhere on the case to rest this heat sink without it falling back into the case.

3. With your free hand, grab the motherboard by the top edge (usually the edge nearest the processor socket) and carefully snake it in between the plastic tubing and support bracket.

4. Line the keyboard, mouse, and other connectors up with the bracket installed on the back of the case. Also, line up the holes on the motherboard with the installed mounting screws on the motherboard plate.

5. With your free hand (don't let go of that heat sink!) secure the motherboard to the case by screwing the board to the mounting screws.

6. Apply (included) non-silicon thermal grease, set the heat sink in place over the processor, and then tighten the mounting screws.

Voila! You now have a water cooled CPU. Before you jump the gun and start over clocking, you should do as I did and make sure the system runs properly at its normal speed. Theoretically, the extra cooling you get from water-cooling should allow you to get a few more clock cycles out of your CPU. Lets test that theory, shall we?